Monday, December 22, 2008

Genalguacil village

Inspired by a book I borrowed from the school library ("Holiday walks from the Costa del Sol" written by Matt Butler a fellow Canadian) we decided to take a visit to Jubrique and Genalguacil villages. Matt says that this area is one of Andalucia's greenest and most isolated areas, well hidden in the mountains, with the villages on peaks of 575m and 559m respectively. Smugglers as far back as Moorish times used to hide in the area protected by the dense forest and steep mountains and Matt has mapped out a trail between the two villages that should be a nice 13 km walk.
It would be, if one could read a map! We started out fine and dandy, but then Harry let me have the map because Matt explains everything, as all hiking books do in terms of landmarks that one should see and being that I am the native English speaker I should have the better understanding of where to go. I translated the descriptions not wanting to have full responsibility for our navigation, knowing that at best I am inclined to go in EXACTLY the wrong direction, and at worst make a series of unsystematic mistakes that will have us completely lost in no time.
Everything seemed to be going well. Matt says: travel about 1 km out of the town on the main road, then when the road takes a sharp right, you will find a path leading up the mountain to the left and after a moderate 20 minute climb you will see a white house ruin. We found the turn, we found the trail but after 10 minutes found a completely broken, no sign of white paint ruin, where the trail apparently stopped. Now we are not sporty enough to think that we made Matt's 20 minute hike in 10 minutes... where is the mistake? The trail, really doesn't seem to exsit anymore, there are some remnents of paths, goat tracks really, could this be the trail?
As we try to deconstruct the directions, Harry's dad, ever patient, who has endured the 1 hour it took for Harry to organizse himself, who has ridden 40 minutes with the dog in the car, has made conversation with us for three days, and eaten our rabbit food as well, decided this is fine enough for him, and will not walk any further. He wants to sit in the sun here and read and eat our sandwiches, I mean we do not really have to make the 13 km hike do we?




Harry had other plans, and is now scouring Matt's book, only to discover I have made the classic mistake and have taken us to the east side of the village and we are supposed to be on the west, so in order to start out hike we need to be on the other side of town.
Opps, he decided as his father had, to have a beer and eat his sandwich.

But I still wanted to go to Genalguacil, as I had read in Matt's description that this is a town filled with artisans and that sculptures can be found all over the village: After all Harry's father is here to visit and may not come back and he HAS TO SEE ALL OF THE WONDRFUL THINGS IN SPAIN, so the men decided (to appease me) they would drive me there, but not now, later, first we would sun bathe.
After a few hours, all feeling positively exothermic, happy and energized from the baking, we wandered back to the car and proceeded to drive on the windy road down the side of Jubrique mountain, and up the side of Genalguacil, with Harry exclaining every five minutes that Jörg has to come visit so they can ride these curves together on the bikes.

We found the village, and the only thing Harry's father wanted to do was have a coffee, while I was eager to show him the sculptures, he was eager for a cafe con leche. He decided to look around the village to accomdiate me, and I sat unruhig in my chair as he drank his coffee, then we packed all back into the Opel Corsa convy and went home.
What did I learn from yesterday:
1. Never never never let me have the map, regardless of what language it is printed in.
2. Being a tour guide is hard work, particularly when you do not know your touree what he would like to see before you set out
3. Polite people never tell you what they really want to do
4. Genalguacil is a pretty great little village once you eventually get there

5. Oh and the dog looks really cute in flowers.










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What I am reading

  • The Ghosts of Spain by Giles Tremlett - this book is great for someone like me who knows nothing of history, I have only just started but have learned a lot about Franco and why the people in my village are the way they are.
  • The Kite Runner by Khaled Hosseini - it was good but I cried, I have decided not to read anymore sad books. I used to love Booker Prize books, but they are all sort of sad, I need to find a new reading list.
  • Vedanta-voice of freedom by Swami Vivekananda - everytime I open this book I find something for me for the day, it is like the book knows what I need to get through the day, the chapters are short and each has a message about the universal human expereince and I suppose in my egocentric world I make believe that the messages are written for me. I know they are not, but it still amazes me everyday, that we all have the same problems even hundreds of years later.